Raphael
A stylish chartered accountant, Raphael shares his curated collection with Loom, blending militaria, Ivy style, and 1940s-50s tailoring. His versatile pieces reveal a passion for history and timeless elegance, making him a true icon of refined fashion.
Photography by Paul Smith
Fashion Editor: Nicki Black
Photo Assistant: Petros Poyiatgi
All vintage clothing is from Raphael's collection.
1940s glasses, a US Air Force WW2 Capri Lucky Bell, a khaki Grenfell shooting jacket by Cordings, a bow tie by E. Tautz, a CWC Mellor 72 watch, a Uniqlo shirt, a 'preppy straps' belt made from an old tie, and 1940s/50s Ghurka shorts.
Loom: How would you describe your style?
Raphael: Militaria meets Ivy, viewed through a distinctly British lens.
Do you focus on a specific era, brand, or style when collecting?
My eye tends to favour tailoring from the 1940s and 1950s.
That said, my style is less about fidelity to a specific era and more a conversation between silhouettes and textures.
What’s the most prized item in your collection?
I maintain a deliberately limited wardrobe, so I prize versatility.
A pair of orphaned 1950s Australian Battle Dress trousers has earned its keep.
Do you draw inspiration from films, music, or subcultures?
Absolutely. I'd be remiss not to mention films like The Godfather, Phantom Thread, Casablanca, Taxi Driver, North by Northwest, and The Grand Budapest Hotel.
I’m also drawn to illustrations and photography from the Jazz Age, old Hollywood, and the Ivy Style and West Coast jazz scene of the 1950s.
Grey wide-leg trousers by Chester Cordite, a Tottenham Hotspur football shirt (1940s remake), Grenson loafers, a Buzz Rickson hat (remake), and an Anderson’s belt.
Where do you usually find your pieces?
I tend to do extensive research online, which has led me to vintage dealers, surplus warehouses, and private collections across the world.
What do you think clothing says about a person?
Clothing is an outward expression of how one sees oneself or how one hopes to be seen.
As Mark Twain, in his oft-quoted (though possibly apocryphal) wisdom, put it: 'Clothes make the man.' Naked people have little or no influence on society.'
Who are your biggest style influences or icons?
Fred Astaire, Pablo Picasso, Ralph Lauren, Bruce Boyer and Gianni Agnelli.
What’s the rarest or hardest-to-find item you’ve acquired?
A pair of 1937 U.S. Army (CCC) denim trousers; rare, rugged, and treated with a level of reverence I doubt their original maker anticipated.
What piece of clothing would you most want to own in your collection if money was no object?
Sir Winston Churchill’s chalkstripe siren suit by Henry Poole & Co. Equal parts eccentric and functional.
Navy blazer by John Simons; pocket square and tie by HN White; linen shirt by Cordings; trousers are 1950s Commonwealth battle dress; Khaki French military motorcycle dispatch coat from the late 1940s/50s; brogues by Cheaneys.
Navy 1940s Commonwealth sailor trousers, Breton T-shirt by St James, black derby shoes from Cheaneys, red scarf from the V&A, and 1970s parachutist bag from the French military.
Rowing blazer by John Simons; pink linen shirt by Cordings; red wool tie by N.Peal; shoes by Paraboot.