Elliot Lewis
We visited Hornets Kensington, a renowned shop with over 40 years of history specialising in men's traditional, classic, and designer apparel, making it the oldest classic men's vintage clothing shop in the country. During our visit, we had a conversation with Bill Hornets, whose insights are shared in the interview below.
Photography by Paul Smith
Loom: What got you into vintage clothing?
Elliot Lewis: My interest originally stemmed from having a dress code in the sixth form at school that required a jacket, collar and tie to be worn. As a result, I started going to charity shops and the London markets to search out clothing, so I alternated between looking like a member of the Kray's firm or an extra from Brideshead Revisited.
I also collected military clothing and, in particular, flight jackets, stemming from being a plane nut as a kid, and had a thing for really loud clothing and picking up nasty Hawaiians.
But I was blown away when I saw the Steele book on Hawaiian shirts in 1984 and realised they had an incredible history, and that the really good ones were spectacular. And that was it.
Now, over 40 years later, I am still just as excited by seeing a shirt design or colourway I haven't seen before.
How would you describe your style?
My style… never really thought about it. I suppose something like '50s influenced, with a tropical twist, but there are no rules and people should just wear what they like.
When did you set up Hornets Kensington?
My main collection is Hawaiian shirts, but I also have flight jackets, a bit of western, some embroidered car/MC club jackets and more formal '50s jackets.
What’s the most prized item in your collection?
Prized items at the moment: some of the Hawaiian shirts, the "Gaugin" and "Savage" patterns from Kamehameha, and my Abercrombie & Fitch multicoloured Safari Jacket, the same style as Hunter S. Thompson is seen wearing in a photo taken at Circus Circus in around 1971.
Do you specialise in any particular period or type of vintage? What are you best known for on the vintage market?
Not really. I like '50s style from Hawaii, tropical formal: white suit, planter style hat, Hawaiian shirt.
Where do you usually find your pieces?
It used to be vintage markets and shops in the UK, Europe and the US, and then things moved online to eBay. There is still a bit online for me, but now it is mainly through a network of personal contacts.
Who shops with you?
That they have a sense of style. Sometimes great, sometimes not so great, but it is a subjective view, so people should wear what they want. It might not be to my taste, but that doesn't mean it is not stylish.
Who are your biggest style influences or icons?
No one in particular. Lots of people look great. I did love the original 1968 Hawaii Five-O. It was as far away as you could get from rainy London, and the Morton Stevens theme music was great.
What piece would be your dream find?
Lots of items have required patience to obtain or ease out of fellow collectors, which is where long-term relationships and respecting other collectors sometimes get you what you want in the end.
What piece would be your dream find?
Easy. The Hundred Tiger Hawaiian.